Put the bones and bacon into a large saucepan and heat gently for 10 minutes until the marrow begins to run from the centre of the bones. Turn the bones occasionally.

Add the vegetables and fry for 10 more minutes, stirring the vegetables and turning the bones until browned.

Add the herbs, salt and peppercorns then pour in the water and bring slowly to the boil. Skim off any scum with a slotted spoon, then reduce the heat, half cover with a lid and simmer gently for 4–5 hours until the liquid has reduced by half.

Strain through a large sieve into a jug. Cool then chill in the refrigerator overnight. Skim off any fat and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

If you’re not in the habit of roasting large beef joints on the bone, you can obtain the beef bones from your local butcher; he may even give them to you for free. Use the bones raw when preparing your stock. Lamb stock can be made in the same way from cooked or uncooked lamb bones.