Of Farmers, Liesl, and Capuchins
There are many names in Austria for a cake made of flour, sugar, chocolate, ground roasted hazelnuts, egg yolks, and beaten egg whites that is infused with hot spiced wine and served with whipped cream. In Vienna, it is known mostly as a “drunken Capuchin.” The blame probably lies with the once poor reputation of the Capuchin monks, who allegedly not only took their vow of celibacy with a grain of salt, but also enjoyed having one drink too many. In many southern German cookbooks, you will find this cake called a “drunken Liesl.” And when the dish is prepared—somewhat earthier— with fried crumbs and raisins, then saturated with sugared wine, then it is tellingly called a “drunken farmer.”