Eggs—Vade Mecum of the Sweet Kitchen
Nothing can change our modern eating habits, full of warnings about cholesterol. You can certainly reduce the amount of eggs in a modern cake. But without any eggs, you won’t get anywhere.
And you don’t have to. Even cholesterol skeptics admit that eggs have their nutritional benefits. In particular, they are relatively low fat and low calorie, especially the egg white, and yet rich in all sorts of vitamins and minerals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and phosphor.
Above all, eggs are ideally suited to baking and binding due to their physiological properties. When the egg whites are beaten, the proteins tear somewhat and are stretched out. The air that they capture in the process makes egg whites an ideal leavening agent.
The protein of the yolk also has its merits. It is somewhat less stable than that of the egg white, but is ideally suited to binding and thickening. But, of course, caution is necessary when heating egg yolk because it congeals easily under too much heat.
SHOPPING FOR EGGS
You can tell a good egg by the shell, which should be clean, undamaged, and even. Otherwise bacteria can get inside easily. That is why damaged eggs spoil more quickly.
Free range eggs exhibit a stronger taste and a more intensively yellow yolk due to the varied feeding situation of the hens. The slightly higher price of free range eggs pays for itself morally and in taste.
STORAGE OF EGGS
• Store your eggs in a cool, dark, airy place at about 54 °F (12 °C) and about 80 percent humidity.
• Keep eggs that you want to store for longer in your refrigerator at a temperature between 34 and 37 °F (1 and 3 °C).
• Before using eggs, let them reach room temperature.
• Avoid unnecessary temperature swings, because “sweating” can cause eggs to grow mold.
• Keep your eggs as protected as possible from other aromas, because they absorb strange smells very easily. For your sweet kitchen, this is especially important, because you don’t want your cake to smell of vegetables or fish.
TESTING FRESHNESS
You can test the freshness of an egg using the water test. Place the egg in a glass of cold water and see what it does. If it sinks to the bottom, it is fresh. If the wide base of the egg floats up, it is about a week old. However, if it floats up off the bottom, it was laid two or three weeks before. You can check the freshness once more after you crack the egg. The egg should have no smell, the white should be compact around the yolk, and the yolk itself should be high and round and brightly colored.
Small, dark flecks are a sign that the egg has been fertilized and should only be used with caution.
At the round end of the egg there is an air pocket which becomes larger as the egg gets older.
HOW DO YOU SEPARATE EGGS?
Gently hit the egg in the middle with the back of a knife over a small bowl. Let the white run into the bowl and dump the yolk into a different bowl. It is particularly important when beating egg whites that there are no bits of yolk mixed into the white. So it makes sense to avoid breaking the eggs over a bowl that is already full of egg whites, because just a little bit of yolk could make them entirely useless.
HOW EGG WHITES ARE SURE TO SUCCEED
• Use egg whites that are somewhat older. They are better suited to beating.
• Keep the bowl as well as the mixing tool—whisk, stand mixer, or hand mixer—as cool as possible.
• It is best to use granulated sugar with beaten egg whites.
• Beat the egg whites without sugar at first, until it begins to bind together, and only then add the granulated sugar.
• Beat the egg whites—unless otherwise directed—until they are firm and so stiff that little “glacier peaks” form.
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