To prepare the poussins, mix the first seven ingredients together and rub all over the birds.

Gently ease the skin off the breasts and legs of the poussins at the cavity openings and spoon the mixture underneath, too (see technique for Roast chicken with mushrooms and sage butter under the skin).

Place on a large dish, cover loosely with cling film and put in the fridge to marinate for two to four hours.

Bring the birds to room temperature before cooking.

When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5.

To make the butter, just mash all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

Using your hands, spread this all over the birds, then put them into a roasting tin and cook in the hot oven for 45–50 minutes, or until the birds are a lovely dark brown and, when pierced with a sharp knife between the thigh and the body, the juices that run out are clear, with no trace of pink.

Cover with foil and leave to rest for 10–15 minutes.

For the chutney, put the cumin seeds in a dry pan and toast until they are fragrant (about 40 seconds).

Put all the ingredients for the chutney into a food processor and whizz to a paste.

(If you want a sweet version, add the sugar. ) Taste for seasoning.

This will be fine in the fridge for three days, but let it come to room temperature before serving, as it sets rather solidly.

To serve, get out your biggest platter.

Boil some white basmati rice and stir plenty of chopped coriander through it.

Spread the rice out on the platter and put the birds on top.

Spoon on the cooking juices – they will make the birds glossy and season the rice, too – and serve with the chutney and a mango and spinach salad.