Preheat a smoker to 300°F.

Use poultry shears or a sharp paring knife to trim any excess fat off the skin and meat of each thigh.

Rub the thighs all over with apple cider vinegar, and then apply the rub evenly on both sides of each thigh.

Place each thigh into one cup of the prepared mold.

Set the mold inside the baking pan, then pour the broth into the bottom of the pan, taking care not to pour the broth directly on top of the chicken.

Place the pan in the smoker, uncovered, and smoke for 1½ hours.

While thighs are smoking, make the sauce.

In a blender, combine the two barbecue sauces, the tomato paste, honey, maple syrup, blackberry preserves, and butter.

Blend until thoroughly combined.

Transfer the sauce into a large saucepan.

Over moderate heat, warm the sauce until it is hot but not boiling, stirring continuously.

When the sauce has thoroughly combined and is warm throughout, remove from the burner and set aside to cool.

Remove the pan from the smoker.

Carefully unmold the chicken thighs onto a clean aluminum baking sheet, skin side up.

Brush the thighs lightly with the warm sauce.

Place the baking sheet in the smoker and smoke for 30 minutes to allow the sauce to caramelize into the chicken skin.

Remove the thighs from the smoker.

Let the thighs rest, loosely covered, for 30 minutes before serving.

This is a more complicated question than it might seem.

Everybody loves barbecuing chicken.

But exactly what they mean by “barbecued chicken” could be one of two distinctly different things.

I’m going to break it down for you here, with definitions and recipes to go with both ideas of “barbecued chicken.

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