Before you conclude that I’ve gone quite mad with the cash, consider this: this is a lovely dish, special, a real treat, something you can enjoy with your partner or a few good friends. In my life, I’ve made it on only a handful of occasions (though never before now with fresh truffles) and I’ve never regretted it. Depending on how flush you are, this dish can be incredibly expensive to make or – at the other end of the scale – cheaper than buying four takeaway pizzas. In descending order of expense you can use fresh black truffles (summer are cheaper than winter truffles), truffles that are frozen or in jars in their own juice, or sliced truffles preserved in oil. The price of fresh truffles varies. The cheapest form – sliced black summer truffles in oil – costs about £7.50 for 30g/1oz (about the amount you need for this dish). You get what you pay for but even the sliced and preserved truffles, in my opinion, are gorgeous. Since you are cooking with truffles it makes sense to get the best bird you can afford. You could buy the best your local butcher provides, or a Label Anglais, or go all out and buy a Bresse chicken (you can read more about ‘high end’ chickens in the introduction). All forms of truffles – and truffle butter – can be found online.