An old-fashioned classic, this is a lovely main course for a French bistro-style meal. Just make sure – since this requires some last-minute attention – that you have an easy starter and pudding to go either side of it. In fact one of those ‘eat-while-you-stand-around’ starters (offer saucisson, croûtes with pâté, hard-boiled quail’s eggs and tapenade, that kind of thing) is a good idea, so you cook the chicken while you all graze.