Palm sugar-griddled chicken with radishes, cucumber and vermicelli rice noodles
Oh, I love this dish. The cold noodles, the crisp vegetables, the sweet chicken, the heat of the dressing. Try to find watermelon radish, an Asian radish with a stunning pink interior and a great texture. You can use multicoloured radishes (if you can get hold of them) instead, or just regular radishes are fine.
Remove the coarse outer layers from the lemon grass and trim the top and base.
Chop the rest – the softer bit of the lemon grass – as finely as you can.
Mix together the soy sauce, rice wine, ginger, garlic, palm sugar, finely chopped coriander stalks, half the lime juice and the lemon grass.
Put the chicken in a dish and pour over the marinade, turning to coat.
Cover with cling film and put in the fridge for about four hours.
Bring it to room temperature before cooking.
To make the dressing, put the rice into a hot frying pan and cook for two or three minutes, shaking regularly, until pale golden brown.
Transfer to a large mortar or spice grinder and set aside to cool.
Once cool, pulverize.
Put the chilli, palm sugar and garlic into a mortar and crush until you almost have a paste.
Pound in the root ginger, then gradually add the fish sauce and lime juice and stir in 1 tbsp of the toasted rice.
Put the rice vermicelli into just-boiled water and leave it for four minutes, then drain really well, run cold water through them and leave to drain and cool.
If you have found watermelon radish, peel off the skin then, using a small sharp knife, shave off strips of it in furls.
You should end up with something that looks like pink pencil shavings.
Or just finely slice regular radishes and the cucumber.
Toss the cold noodles with the cucumber, radish, the rest of the lime juice, the oil and most of the mint.
Heat a griddle pan.
Shaking the excess marinade off the chicken, cook each piece on the hot griddle on both sides, starting on a medium-high heat to get a good colour, then reducing the heat to cook the chicken through.
Divide the salad between four shallow bowls or one large one.
Put the chicken on top and scatter with the rest of the mint.
Spoon on a little dressing and offer the rest in a bowl.