There are many different kinds of laksa – essentially a thick noodle soup – and it varies from country to country (it’s found in Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and Cambodia). This is a simple version, perfect for cooking midweek (it’s pretty quick, despite having to do a bit of pounding to make the paste) and a great vehicle for leftover chicken. You can add other ingredients (beansprouts, beans, peppers), it depends on what you have. I’m usually quite purist about dishes (I don’t like mucking about with classics) but on a Wednesday night, when you’re hungry and short of time, I think anything goes. You can use wide rice noodles or, if it’s all you have, rice vermicelli.