Beat the eggs with granulated sugar, vanilla sugar, lemon zest, and cinnamon.
Mix the hazelnuts with the flour and mix into the eggs carefully.
Butter the small pans and dust with flour.
Fill with batter and bake about 25 minutes.
For the infusion, boil orange juice with granulated sugar and water.
Let cool and mix with rum and white wine.
Soak the cooked cakes in the liquid until the entire amount has been absorbed.
Whip the cream with the confectioner’s sugar and garnish the Capuchins.
Notes / Tips / Wine Advice:
Of Farmers, Liesl, and Capuchins
There are many names in Austria for a cake made of flour, sugar, chocolate, ground roasted hazelnuts, egg yolks, and beaten egg whites that is infused with hot spiced wine and served with whipped cream. In Vienna, it is known mostly as a “drunken Capuchin.” The blame probably lies with the once poor reputation of the Capuchin monks, who allegedly not only took their vow of celibacy with a grain of salt, but also enjoyed having one drink too many. In many southern German cookbooks, you will find this cake called a “drunken Liesl.” And when the dish is prepared—somewhat earthier— with fried crumbs and raisins, then saturated with sugared wine, then it is tellingly called a “drunken farmer.”