Wild fennel grows like a weed in California. If you happen upon it—pick the flowering heads and tender shoots. They dry well and make a welcome addition to fish or just about anything on the grill. I love wild fennel for this dish, but if you can’t find it, store-bought fennel bulbs also work. This recipe keeps well in your refrigerator, so feel free to make it in advance. Serve it on its own, or like most things, it’s even better with vanilla ice cream.