Tamales de AcelgasKatherine Williams and her late husband, Al Williams, owned the once-famous Papagayo Room Mexican restaurant in San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel. Charismatic owner-host Al Williams spent part of his early life in Mexico City and later introduced Americans in San Francisco to authentic Mexican cuisine. The Papagayo Room's elegant surroundings attracted Hollywood stars such as Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe, and Woody Allen from the 1940s through the 1970s. After the restaurant closed, the Williams' operated Papagayo School of Cooking, where I was inspired and entertained during many memorable classes.After her husband's death, Katherine Williams wrote a book based on their restaurant's recipes. Katherine's tamales wrapped in Swiss chard were new to me then, but I have since enjoyed other versions. Chard leaves are wonderful wrappers and make the whole package edible. I serve them as a separate course with cooked tomato sauce.